Wine Country

A leisurely round around Napa Golf Club lasts about four hours, so what to do with the rest of your day? Golf Around the Bay recommends you double your pleasure with some exceptional wine tasting and exquisite art appreciation.

HALL Winery.  HALL set wine country abuzz by commissioning architect Frank Gehry, he of Guggenheim Bilbao fame, to create his first-ever design in Northern California. The eye-popping new winery is not set to open until 2010, however guests can view a model---while sampling some of Napa’s finest Cabernets---on display in HALL’s tasting room. For a closer look at the remarkable wood-and-glass design that is taking shape, call ahead for an in-depth viewing of 40 of Gehry’s detailed models and renderings. Open daily 10:00-5:30; tasting fee. In-depth architecture tour $25 (reserve ahead). 401 St. Helena Hwy South (Hwy 29), St. Helena; 707-967-2620, hallwines.com

Quixote. Welcome to the next frontier. Ten years in the making, wine country maverick Carl Doumani poured his heart and proceeds from the sale of Stag’s Leap into this Technicolor fantasy. Think Uncle Wiggly meets Salvador Dali, but the winery, which opened in March of this year and is devoted to small lots of Petite Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, is the handiwork of Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser. This colorful wonderland of imported art glass and tile, trees growing on rooftops, a swooping gold onion dome and few, if any, straight lines is the only place on the continent to get a jolt of Hundertwasser’s uniquely off-kilter world view, and it is not to be missed. Open by appointment; tastings $25. 6126 Silverado Trail, Napa; 707-944-2569, quixotewinery.com

Clos Pegase. Nowhere is the “wine is art, and art is life” motto more fully realized than at this groundbreaking winery just south of Calistoga. Stroll the cypress-lined, sculpture-filled courtyard fronted by a voluptuous Henry Moore and toss a salute to the Bacchus fountain before heading to the tasting room to see the winery’s namesake Pegasus by 19^th century French artist Odilon Redon. The landmark two-tone postmodern winery building by Michael Graves does not disappoint. Nor does Clos Pegase’s epic Chardonnay. Open daily 10:30-5:00; tours at 11:30 and 2:00; tasting fee; 1060 Dunaweal Lane, Calistoga; 707-942-4981, clospegase.com

Hess Collection. A true wine country treasure. Hess Collection is off the beaten path, but do not let the 15-minute winding drive west of the valley’s main road deter you; the ride past vines, meadows, and towering redwood trees is as worthwhile as it is beautiful. The art on display inside the stone winery, which is a work in and of itself, encompasses a Who’s Who of 20^th century abstract art, including Morris Lewis, Frank Stella, and Robert Motherwell. Take special note of both the 2005 Sauvignon Blanc and environmental artist Andy Goldworthy’s melted rock sculptures. Open daily 10:00-5:00; tasting fee. 4411 Redwood Rd, Napa; 707-255-1144, hesscollection.com

Mumm Napa. It should be no surprise that one of the valley’s most beautifully situated wineries would choose to celebrate nature photography. The big draw is an ongoing, semi-permanent exhibition of original Ansel Adams photographs, including famous prints of Yosemite’s Half Dome and Bridalveil Fall, but also featuring images from the New Mexico desert and Sierra Nevada mountains. Free tours of Mumm’s facilities offer a terrific education in the art of sparkling winemaking, and there may not exist a prettier outdoor terrace anywhere in the area. Open daily 10:00-5:00; tours 10:00-3:00 on the hour; tasting fee. 8445 Silverado Trail, Rutherford; 707-967-7700, mummnapa.com.

Artesa. This stunning hilltop winery delivers Armani-style streamlined modernity with tranquil reflecting pools, meticulously manicured grounds, and a series of gently arched fountains. Artist-in-residence Gordon Huether’s sculptural experiments with metal and glass highlight the winery’s serene inner courtyard, and a small but worthwhile museum room houses early grape presses and amphorae. Take time to linger over a glass of the luscious new release 2003 Napa/Sonoma County Merlot on the outdoor terrace overlooking the surrounding Carneros wine region. Open daily 10:00-5:00; tours at 11:00 and 2:00; tasting fee; 1345 Henry Rd, Napa; 707-224-1668, artesawinery.com

St. Supery. Atop one of the more inviting tasting rooms in the valley is an upstairs art gallery offering seasonal exhibits as well as a free, informative self-guided tour. Alongside rotating exhibits of wine-themed art, discover displays of 1940s California wine bottles and fun sniffing stations that deconstruct elements of a wine’s bouquet. Meet-the-artist nights are held regularly, and the gallery also hosts special events during the Napa Mustard Festival, held annually every February and March. St. Supery’s Rosé is a perfect picnic wine, but to sample the higher-end limited edition and library selection wines come on the weekend when the Divine Wine Room Tasting offers tastings of small production wines available only at the winery. Open daily 10:00-5:00; tasting fee. 8440 St. Helena Hwy, Rutherford; 800-942-0809, stsupery.com

di Rosa Preserve. Pioneering grape farmer and self-professed “artaholic” Rene di Rosa loves two things: contemporary Northern California art and the golden landscapes of the Carneros wine region. Both are celebrated here, where at last count over 900 artists were represented. There are several tour options, but our favorite is the curator-led Art & Meadow tour offered by reservation on Saturdays. There is no winery here, yet there is plenty to savor. Open 9:30-3:00 Tue-Sat; tours start at $10, reservations required on Saturdays; 5200 Carneros Hwy (Hwy 121), Napa; 707-226-5991, dirosapreserve.org

Cornerstone Festival of Gardens. Not in Napa and not a winery, but a must-see for art lovers. Far beyond a typical botanic garden, fifteen of the country’s most respected landscape artists were each given a plot of land and asked to run wild with their designing dreams. The result? A unique perspective on all that gardening is and can be, from a tree covered entirely in sky-blue Christmas tree balls to an all-eucalyptus garden to a maze of painted red bamboo. Wine tasting is available, and there is a excellent café as well as shopping for architectural salvage and garden art. Open daily 10:00-5:00; admission is free. 23570 Hwy 121, Sonoma. 707-933-3010, cornerstonegardens.com

— Abigail Peterson

Hope to see you out there and Happy Golfing!

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